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Top Food Editors: Day 29 & Dorothy Chapman

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Day 29 of Top Food Editors features Dorothy Chapman. She had been the women's page editor at the Orlando Sentinel when Barr was the food editor. When Barr retired in 1969, Chapman became the food editor.

In 1971, Chapman became the first restaurant editor at the newspaper.

She wrote several cookbooks based on her column, "Thought You'd Never Ask."

According to her obituary:

"As the Orlando Sentinel's first restaurant critic, Chapman wielded her pen and fork with a civil tongue. "We [chefs] gave her a lot of respect because she gave us a lot of respect," said longtime Orlando restaurateur Major Jarman. "She was fair. Everyone took her comments as constructive criticism and learned from them."

Chef Johnny Rivers agrees. "I think Dorothy was more than just a food editor," Rivers said. "She was a mentor to many of us and raised the bar of expectation in Central Florida."

Top Food Editors: Day 30 & Virgnia Heffington

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Day 30 of Top Food Editors features Virginia Heffington - a food editor in Florida and California.

Recently, the Miami Herald cited a recipe from its 1960s food editor Virginia Heffington.

Above is the book that Heffington wrote in 1968 when she was the Homemaking Editor of the Miami Herald. At that point she had been at the Herald for five years and had won a Vesta Award - the top recognition for food journalism.

In the introduction to the book, she mentioned that she was a graduate of Iowa State in home economic journalism.

I also found an archive in Canada that had ten of Virginia's clips in its collections.

By 1971, she became the food editor at the Long Beach (CA) Independent Press-Telegram. She was kicked out of Liberace’s kitchen while covering a story. She said to the singer: "I think we should forget the story because you're a better piano player than you are a cook. Your beef stroganoff tastes more like canned beef stew.” She co-authored a cookbook about tropical foods. By 1980, she was writing about food for the Knight-Ridder newspaper chain.

Our Gatronomica Article Is Out

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Our article about newspaper food sections and journalism is out. Our investigation looked at the accusations against food editors by Senator Frank Moss and found them baseless. It also highlights the work of food journalists Peggy Daum, at the Milwaukee Journal, and Ruth Gray, of the St. Pete Times, as well as the creation of what is now called the Association of Food Journalists.

Here is a link to it.

Talking About Clubwomen to the Junior League of Daytona Beach

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I am looking forward to my talk tomorrow evening to the Junior League of Daytona Beach: “Women’s Clubs: Well Behaved Women Who Helped Create Community.” In my presentation, I will discuss Marie Anderson's contributions to Miami.

Above is a photo of Marie Anderson, the longtime women's page editor of the Miami Herald and the president of the Miami Junior League in 1945. (She is the one wearing glasses; she is sitting next to fellow journalist Dorothy Jurney.)

In the mid-1960s, nearly 9,000 women showed up when Anderson ran a notice asking if female readers were interested in continuing their education. It led to the highly successful Council for the Continuing Education of women.

The Council's coordinator Betty Kaynor said: "Marie was the dreamer for it. It became one of the prestigious groups in the nation and we were consulted by people all over the U.S., but it never would have flown without Marie's stories in the Herald. And she certainly put her civic/community resource Junior League training to work."

The quote and more about Anderson can be found in Nancy Beth Jackson's The Junior League: 100 Years of Volunteer Service.

Women's Clubs, Academia & Social Media

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I have spoken several times about the need for academics to use social media to promote their research. Below is an example of how social media and the real world came together.

In the Spring, I answered a Tweet from NPR's the Salt about the cookbooks produced by Junior League organizations as fundraisers.

That led to an interview with an NPR reporter and this story.

A few weeks ago, I received an email from the president of the Daytona Beach Junior League who had heard the story on the radio. Last night, I spoke to the organization in honor of its 80 year anniversary:“Women’s Clubs: Well Behaved Women Who Helped Create Community."

The organization was kind enough to promote my blog and thus continuing the discussion about the women's pages.

AEJMC Presentation About Washington Women Journalists

Quilted News: Mixing Hard and Soft News

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Lance & I just got the acceptance email from the Florida Communication Association about our paper "Quilted News: Mixing Hard and Soft News to Create a New Definition for Women’s News." We will be presenting at the conference in Orlando in October.

The paper is an examination of the content of the winning women’s pages of the Penney-Missouri Awards in the 1960s – the first decade of the competition. There is an emphasis on Florida newspapers because in the 1960s Florida newspapers dominated the Penney-Missouri Awards. Overall, they won one-third of all awards during the decade. The content of the sections were examined using textual analysis. Further information was drawn from oral histories and the archives containing the papers of the Penney-Missouri Awards at the National Women & Media Collection. What was discovered was a news concept of “quilted news,” a mix of soft and hard news was introduced in the women’s pages.
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The quilt above was created by Dallas women's page editor Vivian Castleberry. Here is a link to my article about her.

A New Wave of Women’s Pages

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I am working on a response to a column that ran over the summer: A New Wave of Women’s Pages.

In it, the writer noted: "gloated a bit the day I noticed The Washington Post’s She the People blog finally did away with the smear of lipstick beneath the “She” in its logo. Though I had nothing to do with the change, I so despised that little swipe of red texture. However its disappearance came about, it felt like a victory."

My response will be related to the chapter I am working on for our Mad Men& Women book: Lipstick was never the enemy.

The column is insightful but does gloss over the significant contributions of many women's pages at metropolitan newspapers in the 1950s & 1960s. I will post my response next week.

New Discovery: Ruth Gorrell is Ruth Gray

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My thanks to Carol DeMasters for helping me to solve a food journalism mystery.

As I had suspected, food editor Ruth Gorrell was also Ruth Gray. I could not find a wedding announcement and there was no reference to a maiden name in Ruth Gray's obituary.

Ruth Gorrell earned a bachelor’s degree in home economics from Kansas State University. She was the food editor at the Detroit Times in the early 1950s and later at the St. Petersburg Times. Her recipes are included in the 1952 Coast to Coast cookbook and she attended the annual food editors meetings.

As Ruth Gray, she began reviewing restaurants in 1974. One restaurant that earned a negative review from her named its crab sandwich in her honor. When she was investigating a restaurant, Gray wore hats and scarves and ducked inside the ladies room to take notes and remain inconspicuous. The disguises were needed because some restaurants posted her photo on the wall in the kitchen—a common practice because restaurant owners looked to identify critics.

Working as a Public Historian

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I have been asked why I spend so much time doing research when that work is not considered research by my university. My answer is that I believe in public history. I have written before about having to twice as hard to get tenure because I study regional rather than national figures in journalism history. While it does not feel fair, the women I write about were rarely treated fairly and faced much bigger hurdles than my own.

I have the usual peer-review history journal articles that I publicize through social media, especially Academia.edu and Linkedin. My article about food editor Jeanne Voltz has more than 560 page views on Academia and my co-authored article (with Lance Speere) in Gastronomica about ethics and food journalism earned 100 page views in a 24-hour period after first posted. You can find most of my academic papers here. (Academia.edu is free but you have to register.)

Public history means getting stories out to the masses – much like journalism, which is why I enjoy it. I recently reviewed Eileen M. Wirth's book From Society Page to Front Page: Nebraska Women in Journalism for an Iowa history journal. It is an important book and I enjoyed her closing messages: “I had no idea how many women of achievement in journalism and other fields have been overlooked even in state and regional histories where they might be expected to appear.” (p 163) Further, she wrote “We cannot understand the history of women in the United States unless we consider local and regional dimensions because family obligations have limited the geographic and career mobility of the vast majority of American women.” (pg 164) This what public historians do very well.

While not considered peer reviewed, my articles in regional history magazines have meant a wider audience than a journal article and usually an opportunity to use rich visual images. Consider these examples: Roberta Applegate in Michigan History Magazine, Bobbi McCallum in Columbia Magazine and Colleen “Koky” Dishon in Timeline. I also made sure that Reno journalism Flo Burge was included in an online project for Nevada Women’s History and that Fort Lauderdale journalist Edee Greene was included in an online project documenting Central Florida Radio History.

During the past year, I have had the opportunity to share the stories of Florida women’s page editors (a favorite topic) at talks at Urban Rethink in Orlando and for a meeting of the Daytona Beach Junior League. Next Spring, I will speak about Florida’s women’s page journalism during Women’s History Month at the Orange County History Center. Later, I will speak about Chicago Tribune food editor Ruth Ellen Church at a meeting of the Culinary Historians of Chicago.

Probably my favorite public history project was getting the previously mentioned Roberta Applegate inducted into the Michigan Journalism Hall of Fame. Roberta was long dead when I came across her work. To get the information needed for the lengthy induction consideration, I had to travel to two archives in different states. The first attempt I made was tabled and I was crushed. The following year, I was successful – Roberta would become a member of the Hall which included her father, a journalism history professor. Lance & I flew to Detroit. I got to speak about Roberta (featured above) and her elderly brother accepted on her behalf. This recognition guarantees that her name remains a part of journalism history for future generations.



And, of course, there is this blog which has highlighted women’s page journalists over the last five years and led to more than 115,000 page views. My blog as a public history project was highlighted in this Columbia Journalism Review story last year. My favorite blog projects included the 30 women I posted about each day of Women’s History Month, the Seven Objects that represented the women’s pages and the month of top newspaper food editors.

I work on public history projects because the women I study were so important to their individual communities, even if they were not national figures. Without public history and/or regional history, these women's stories would likely remain untold.

Food Editor Nadine Bradley

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I just found this great 1938 story about Nadine Bradley who was the food editor at the Omaha World-Herald. In the article, it is noted that Bradley had a degree from the University of Missouri and had already been a reporter for 13 years. More than 200,000 women read her column.


The story was due to Bradley being in Miami with her husband for a visit. She likely hired Maude Coons who I wrote about in my book about food editors.

Food Journalism & Regional Cookery

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Lance & I just learned that our paper "Regional Cookery: The Relationship Between Newspaper Food Editors Spanning the Public & Private Spheres" has been accepted for presentation
at this year's National Communication Association's pre-conference: Our Place at the Table: Continuing the Conversation and Deepening the Connections between Food and Communication.



In 2013, historians and culinary writers are just beginning to study food journalism. Until recently, most of what was documented about food journalism was limited to the New York Timesfood editor and restaurant critic Craig Claiborne. One notable exception is the book Hometown Appetites about the longtime New York Herald Tribune food reporter Clementine Paddleford, written by Kelly Alexander and Cynthia Harris.[i]Food editors like Paddleford were influential in their day but have been long overshadowed by Claiborne. According to an article by Alexander, “Paddleford’s genius lay in tapping into what she knew best: authentic home cooking. And she used her pulpit to spread local cooks’ favorite recipes, and the stories behind them, from coast to coast.”[ii]This could be said about the overwhelming female food editors.

Our paper is an examination of newspaper cookbooks from the 1940s through the 1970s. Many newspaper editors published cookbooks and cooking pamphlets over the years. Some included favorites of the food editors and others were collections of recipes sent in by home cook readers or restaurant chefs. Because of their statures as well-known food editors, some of the women wrote their own cookbooks.  


[i] Kelly Alexander and Cynthia Harris,Hometown Appetites: The Story of Clementine Paddleford, the Forgotten Food Writer Who Chronicled How America Ate (New York: Gotham Press, 2008)
[ii] Kelly Alexander, “Hometown Appetites,” Saveur, November 19, 2007. http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/Hometown-Appetites/1
 


History Takes Time

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It has been more than seven years since I first heard the name Eleni Epstein - the longtime fashion editor at the Washington Star. It was when Lance and I were going through papers of the National Women & Media Collection, then at the University of Missouri. Eleni kept everything so we had a lot to go through. We made at least six visits to archive to go through her papers during the years we lived in St. Louis.

Over the years, I discovered additional material about Eleni at several archives including the New York Public Library - Lance and I visited the Library and went through the papers of the Fashion Guide International during one of our trips to New York. I interviewed her step-daughter, Diane, back in 2007.

Bit by bit, I found more references to Eleni and was more impressed by her career. Initially, I wrote the article as a Washington, D.C.-based story to be submitted to a a local journal. After a long wait (more than a year), I finally got feedback for a revise and resubmit.  I did not like the directions so I pulled it from the Washington, D.C. journal.

I gathered more information from a national journalism history perspective. A favorite moment was interviewing Helen Thomas at the Orlando airport about Eleni. The two were good friends

Lance reworked the article to submit it to Media History Monographs. After a year of revising-and-resubmitting, the article was published today. It is available here.

In looking through my journal publications, I realized that most articles take 4-5 years from beginning to publication. Archival research is time consuming and some of my work is about women who left no papers behind - complete mysteries until we tell their stories. Yet, I believe these stories are important - especially regional history that I blogged about here.

Revised Women's Page/Lifestyle Section

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I was interested to see that a newspaper is revising its feature section with a nod to its 1960s women's section, according to this article.
The editors asked readers: "What do you wish was still part of The Chronicle?"
The answer was: “Enhance Your Life Section.” 
The newspaper is creating a section called "Your Life."
It was described as "a cross between the Women’s sections of the 1960s and 1970s and the scratch-and-sniff ink on April Fools’ Day Lifestyle section of the 1980 and 1990s."
I was pleased to see a newspaper recognize the value of the 1960s women's pages rather than dismissing them as fluff - which typically happens.


Omaha Food Editor Maude Coons

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Maude Charron Coon was the longtime food editor at the Omaha World-Herald. She graduated from the home economics program at Iowa State University after overcoming paralysis caused by polio, as noting in the story above.

She started at the Omaha World-Herald as the household editor in 1936. She and her husband had relocated to Omaha in the hopes that either of them could find a job during a trying economic time. They were thrilled when they both found jobs.

Initially, she wrote under the byline of “Mary Cooks.” By the 1940's, she wrote under her own name. She wrote several food pamphlets and one cookbook.

She was attending the annual food editors meeting when she learned that she had become a grandmother. She regularly covered the annual week-long events and at times sent back more than a story a day in the 1950's. In one story, she outlined the new products introduced by the Omaha-based company Swanson & Son: boneless chicken fricassee, pure chicken broth, and fricassee of chicken wings. She noted that the broth could add flavor and color to gelatin molds. In another story from that same day, she reported that the head of the grocery store trade group opposed price controls for food. She also wrote about a presentation from Frigidaire. She estimated that by 1957, 18 percent of American homes would have freezers. In a story a few days later. Later, Coons wrote about a speech from a doctor from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology who said that the biggest nutrition problem in the country was “weight control.” He went on to declare the current diets in the news as “dangerous, faddish, and silly.” In other presentations, the editors learned that 75 percent of packaged ice cream was sold in grocery stores and that the home consumption of frozen orange juice had increased 400 percent in the past four years.

Coons answered between 60-75 questions each day, she estimated. Some were about fashion and etiquette but most were about food. With her home economics background, she could answer most questions on her own. Yet, he was stumped by how to cook some foods – such as inquiries about grilling rattlesnake, turtle and blackbirds. Sometimes the questions veered into other areas as some callers “really were just lonely and wanted to talk.”


She retired from the newspaper in 1973.

Did Feminism Kill Home Cooking?

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Some critics have blamed feminism for the lack of home cooking today and the increased reliance on convenience food. (Isn't it sad that feminism is blamed for so much and rarely given credit for what feminism helped women achieve.) Perhaps the most vocal of these was food writer Michael Pollan who wrote in a 2009 essay in the New York Times. He wrote that one of the reasons that women do not cook was that women went to work. In his New York Times essay, he also described Betty Friedan’s 1963 The Feminine Mystiqueasthe book that taught millions of American women to regard housework, cooking included, as drudgery, indeed as a form of oppression.” Even without the book, women were questioning their roles in the home in the 1960's. American housewives were reading Erma Bombeck who humorously mocked the unappreciated work of a homemaker and mother in her newspaper columns and books. (Here is her take on cooking like Julia Child.) Author and newspaper columnist Peg Bracken, known as a “cookbook rebel,” did the same for cooking in her 1960 book I Hate to Cook where she allowed to women to admit they might like see joy in cooking.
Erma Bombeck


Pollan’s writing led to various responses from the feminist community and the conversation continued over the years. In 2013, Salon asked the question: “Is Michael Pollan a sexistpig?” In the other corner, the Huffington Post posted: “In Defense of MichaelPollan.” Regardless of the mediated answer, it is just another example of feminism being blamed for people no longer cooking. The truth about the relationship between food and feminism is more complicated and Friedan’s book is hardly at fault. It is more likely that the lack of knowledge about cooking can be traced back to taking home economics out of the schools and, in part, feminism is to blame in that area. When radical feminist Robin Morgan spoke to the national home economics organization in 1972, she is best remembered for referring to the women in the audience as the “enemy.” Yet, overall, she had a more nuanced message in her talk. She said: “Demand that if home economics is required for high school women, it should also be required for high school men. We must break down the notion and that child care and homemaking are gender jobs.” 
Maggie Savoy
Similarly, in 1970, Los Angeles Times women's page editor Maggie Savoywrote about how she explained women’s liberation to men: “If he said – and some still do – ‘Women’s place is in the home,’ I brighten. ‘It’s so wonderful we want to share it. Here’s my dishrag.” Feminists did not necessarily want to stop cooking; they just did not want to do all of the cooking. Bringing home economics back into the school curriculum is the way to increase home cooking.

Tampa Bay History Journal Article: Anne Rowe

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The article that Lance & I wrote for the Tampa Bay History Journal is out. In the article, we explain the role of women's page journalist Anne Rowe and how she transformed her section to a more progressive one.

New Marjorie Paxson Image

Celebrating Archival Research & Re-examining Women's History

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Lance and I went to a wonderful talk at the University of Tampa last Friday. Kacy Tillman presented “The Epistolary Salon: Female Letter-Writing during the American Revolution.” She argued that writing letters was a way for the 18th century American female to engage in the American Revolution at a time when they could not fight, vote or legislate. I found it interesting how much of the material in the letters sounded like journalism. Her talk was also a reminder that women's history and the role of women in the public sphere is more complex than previous historians have written.

Kacy described some wonderful finds in archives such as notes in the margins of letters. It reminded me of some of the discoveries Lance & I have found going through the papers of women's page journalists. One of my favorites was in a P.S. on a letter from Fort Lauderdale News editor Edee Greene to Paul Myhre. The P.S. was "I wore a pantsuit to work today." Then I noticed the date - August 26, 1970. It was Women's Strike for Equality Day. It was her way of rebelling.


Paul Myrhe was the director of the Penney-Missouri Awards - the top honor for the women's pages. (He is the namesake of our Baby Paul.) He wrote regularly to the women journalists and saved all of the letters. One of the women he was closest to Maggie Savoy, a women's page editor in Arizona and California. It was fun to watch their friendship go from formal to one in which she signs her letters "Love Maggie." These letters were important to understand the women's page community - especially because Maggie died in 1970 and Paul died in 1971.


Edee Greene's 100th Birthday

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This weekend would have been Fort Lauderdale women's page editor Edee Greene's 100th birthday. She was a groundbreaking journalist who fought for women's rights while writing a humor column.

I learned a lot about Edee from the papers that she wrote to Paul Myhre, the director of the Penney-Missouri Awards. They are available in the National Women & Media Collection.

My article about Edee Greene is being published by Tequesta this year.
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